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Factory Visit to Masi Jeans: Northern Europe’s Last Jeans Manufacturer

Reading Time: 4 minutes


On December 6th this year I had the exciting opportunity to visit the production facility of Masi Jeans in Valga, Estonia. Right upon arrival, it became clear that Masi Jeans differs from conventional jeans manufacturers. The innovative approach and strong commitment to quality and sustainability set the company apart significantly from the competition.

Back pocket sewing automat


The First Impression


From the moment you enter the production hall, you notice that more than just jeans are made here. The atmosphere is characterized by a blend of modern technology and traditional craftsmanship. The machines operate precisely and efficiently, yet great emphasis is placed on manual skills. This combination ensures that each pair of jeans manufactured here meets the highest standards.

Sewing of the gusset


A Finnish Family Business


Masi Jeans is a Finnish family business and currently the only jeans manufacturer in Northern Europe. Founded in the 1970s, the company moved its production to Valga in Estonia about 20 years ago. Valga is located in the south of Estonia, directly on the border with Latvia, and presents a peculiarity, as the state border runs right through the town, with one half in Estonia and the other in Latvia. During the Soviet Union, Valga was a center for the clothing industry, and even today, some companies from this sector are still based there. At its peak, 1300 workers manufactured clothing in this facility. Today, 60 highly specialized workers produce approximately 160,000 pairs of jeans per year.

Every working station produces a different part of the jeans


Focus on Sustainability


A standout feature of Masi Jeans is the strong commitment to sustainability. Unlike many conventional manufacturers, Masi Jeans uses eco-friendly materials and production processes. For instance, they use organic cotton and recycled fabrics to minimize their ecological footprint. Even in production, measures are taken to save water and energy. This starkly contrasts with the often resource-intensive methods of other jeans producers. The denim scraps generated are collected and recycled by a Finnish textile recycler to create new yarn. Achieving the desired color and effects in the jeans washing process requires significant water and harmful chemicals. Masi Jeans reduces water consumption through laser technology and projects to bleach jeans with enzymes and ozone, significantly reducing environmental impact.

Industrial jeans washing machine with ozone generator setup (on the right side)


Why Masi Jeans Stays in Northern Europe


Why can Masi Jeans still produce jeans in Northern Europe while most of the clothing industry has moved to Asia? The answer lies in production speed, experience, and a bit of stubbornness. Masi Jeans has managed to equip its production lines with a highly specialized sewing machine park. Each machine is specialized in a specific task. This allows Masi Jeans to produce a pair of jeans in an average of 12-13 sewing minutes, whereas an experienced seamstress with a regular sewing machine would need about 45 minutes. This capability to produce a top-quality product in a short time allows Masi Jeans to remain competitive.

Back pocket automat in operation


Quality You Can Feel


The quality of Masi Jeans products is unmistakable. Each pair of jeans undergoes strict quality controls to ensure they meet the company’s high standards. Attention is paid not only to craftsmanship but also to comfort. The jeans are robust and durable while offering a comfortable fit.

Part of one production line


Unique Production Processes

Producing a pair of No Bullshit Jeans involves a total of 27 steps carried out on different machines. In summary, the process looks like this:

  • Automatic layering of the fabric in multiple layers
  • Cutting the individual pieces with an automatic cutter
  • Sewing all small parts like pocket linings, watch pocket, fly
  • Attaching the back pockets to the back legs
  • Attaching the front pockets to the front legs
  • Attaching the fly to the front legs
  • Sewing the front legs together
  • Sewing the back legs together
  • Attaching the gusset and sewing the front and back legs together
  • Hemming the leg openings
  • Attaching the waistband
  • Adding buttons
  • Attaching belt loops
  • Attaching the back patch and care labels
  • Washing the jeans
  • Finishing and quality control
  • Denim roll storage


The People Behind the Jeans


Behind every successful company are dedicated and motivated employees. At Masi Jeans, these are not just skilled workers but true jeans enthusiasts. Talking to the employees reveals that everyone here is passionate about their work. This passion is reflected in the products and contributes to what makes Masi Jeans special.

A nearly finished No Bullshit Jeans at the end of my visit. A very big thanks to all the capable seamstresses working at Masi Jeans. And special thanks to Production Manager Maarika Närep (in the middle) and to Factory Director Mihkel Kivi (on the right side of the picture) for welcoming me and explaining me all the production processes.


Conclusion


The factory visit to Masi Jeans in Valga, Estonia, was an impressive experience. The company demonstrates that it is possible to produce high-quality and sustainable jeans without compromising on sustainability and comfort. Masi Jeans sets itself apart from conventional jeans manufacturers through its innovative approaches, clear focus on sustainability, and high product quality. It was truly an experience to see the manufacturing of our No Bullshit Jeans, and I am very pleased to have found an excellent production partner in Masi Jeans.

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