What makes Jeans durable?

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Denim is renowned for its durability and robustness, yet many of us have experienced the frustration of new jeans tearing after just a few weeks. In today’s fast-fashion market, the longevity of jeans has often been sacrificed for quick profits. This article explores how the properties of denim fabric, the fit of the jeans, and the stitching can impact their durability. We aim to provide practical advice and guidelines to ensure that you select a pair of jeans that will last, whether you’re shopping in-store or online.

Durable Denim Fabric

There are numerous misconceptions about what determines the durability of denim fabric. Often, the focus is mistakenly placed on the type of weaving loom used, but the true defining factors of quality begin much earlier in the production process. Similar to cooking, where high-quality ingredients are essential for a great dish, the journey to durable denim starts with the cotton fiber. Key attributes such as fiber length, fineness, and tenacity play a pivotal role. However, fibers alone do not create fabric. The yarn structure, heavily influenced by the spinning technique (ring spinning vs. rotor/open-end spinning), also affects the fabric’s characteristics. While a detailed discussion of fiber and yarn properties is beyond this article’s scope, I intend to delve into these topics in future posts. For now, I aim to raise awareness for this intricate subject.

Can you assess the fiber and yarn properties of jeans on your own? Unless you’re a textile engineer, the answer is likely no. However, you can examine the fabric structure.

Jeans are typically made from denim, a 3/1 twill fabric. Compared to plain weave, twill has fewer yarn interlacings, resulting in longer floats and a more flexible fabric structure. This flexibility allows the threads to cluster and distribute the load during a tear, enhancing the fabric’s tear strength. Consequently, a twill weave with the same yarn has inherently a higher tearing strength than plain weave[1], which makes it more durable for everyday use.

Fabric Weight

To ensure your jeans are robust, consider the fabric weight. Heavier denim, achieved through denser construction and thicker yarns with a higher breaking load, tends to be stronger due to more material per unit area. As a general guideline, opt for jeans with a minimum fabric weight of 13 oz (or 440 g/m² in real units) or more. This weight offers a sturdy pair of jeans capable of withstanding wear and tear, such as thigh chafing. Remember, the heavier the denim, the longer the break-in period. Without specific tools, assessing fabric weight is challenging, but reputable jeans brands will include this vital information in their product descriptions or on the garment itself.

Fabric Composition: Stretch vs. Non-Stretch

In recent years, the prevalence of jeans with stretch content has been on the rise. It’s becoming increasingly difficult to find jeans without elastane in the fabric. Incorporating elastane to enhance the stretchability of jeans is a common strategy to mask imperfections in the fit. Although yarns containing elastane are highly elastic, they possess a significantly lower breaking strength compared to yarns without elastane. Consequently, there is a reduction in both tensile and tear strength as the proportion of elastane in denim fabric increases.[2] For those seeking a durable pair of jeans, it is advisable to opt for fabrics that are devoid of elastane and are composed of 100% cotton.

Jeans Finishing

Jeans have evolved from workwear to a fashion statement, and with that, a variety of techniques have been developed to create styles such as wrinkles, fades, and distressed effects. These styles are achieved through mechanical and chemical treatments that intentionally alter the denim’s structure, potentially weakening it. Research indicates that both tensile and tearing strength can be significantly reduced by these finishing processes.[3] For those prioritizing durability, it’s best to choose jeans with minimal distress. Options include raw denim, which is untreated, or, for easier maintenance, rinse-washed or pre-washed jeans that have only had the starch from the weaving process removed. Pre-washed jeans fade more gradually than raw denim and don’t have issues with crocking—the transfer of indigo dye to other surfaces.

Jeans Fit

A proper fit is crucial not just for comfort but also for the longevity of your jeans. Areas that are too tight or overstretched will wear out faster, leading to tears. Ensuring a good fit for your body type is essential for durable jeans. Additionally, a gusset—a diamond-shaped piece of fabric sewn into the crotch area—can enhance durability. It replaces the intersection of seams in one of the most stressed areas of jeans, distributing the strain over a larger area and increasing the lifespan of the garment by preventing the common ‘crotch blowout.’

Stitching

The integrity of stitching is vital for both the appearance and durability of jeans. Jeans should be free of missing or broken stitches and open seams. The stitching should be neat and uniform, and the thread used should be appropriate for the garment’s intended use. For durability, a thicker thread made of polyester or cotton/polyester core-spun yarn is recommended. While 100% cotton thread might be preferable for recycling purposes, it lacks the necessary robustness and can lead to more frequent seam defects over time.

Pocket Lining

The durability of jeans isn’t just about the denim; the pocket lining also plays a crucial role. A hole in your pocket is more than an inconvenience; it’s a pain in the ass that can lead to lost items. The lining should be compatible with the jeans’ overall durability. Heavier denim calls for a sturdier pocket lining. By feeling the pockets, you can gauge whether they’re made from a lightweight or robust fabric. When inspecting the inside of the jeans, look for well-constructed seams, with a French seam being the ideal choice for both durability and a clean finish.

Tucked Belt Loops

Tucked belt loops are a debated feature, but they’re worth considering, particularly for those who frequently use carabiners. These belt loops are not just bar-tacked to the jeans; they also have an extension sewn into the waistband. This dual attachment point design adds rigidity and strength to the belt loop. It also enhances the jeans’ appearance by hiding the lower open end of the loop, contributing to a cleaner, more polished look.

I hope that with these insights, you can make an informed decision when purchasing your next pair of jeans—ones that are not only stylish but also built to last. Don’t forget to:

• Choose Wisely: Select jeans with a heavier fabric weight and a 100% cotton composition for enhanced durability.
• Understand the Finishing: Be aware of how different finishing techniques can affect the fabric’s strength.
• Consider the Fit: Ensure a good fit to prevent premature wear and tear.
• Check the Details: Inspect the stitching and pocket lining for quality and strength before making a purchase.

As it happens, we are preparing for our first campaign featuring NOBS Clothing Classic Jeans, which embody all the durable qualities discussed in this post. To learn more, visit our homepage. And if you want to be among the first to know about our campaign launch, sign up for our newsletter today.